The Art of Wine Making: De-Stemming the Grapes versus Using the Whole-Clusters

Photo by John Cameron on Unsplash

As previously mentioned, wine making is a blend of art and science. Another aspect that is often regarded as an art form is choosing whether to de-stem the grapes for fermentation of leave them as whole clusters.

The choice between using whole clusters and de-stemming grapes can significantly affect the style, flavor and texture of the wine being produced. Winemakers often choose one method over the other based on their specific artistic preferences.

Whole cluster fermentation is a technique that involves fermenting the entire grape cluster, including the stems, skins and seeds. This process can offer several enhancements to the wine’s flavor, aroma, tannin structure, and complexity.

• Flavor and Aromatics: Fermenting with whole clusters can impart subtle herbal, spicy, and earthy notes to the wine. These flavors can give the wine a slightly “greener” character, including hints of clove, mint, or even green peppercorn.

• Tannin: Stems and seeds contain tannins, which are phenolic compounds that add structure and mouthfeel to the wine. By fermenting with whole clusters, the wine can develop greater tannin structure.

• Complexity: Whole cluster fermentation promotes a greater flavor profile. The stems and seeds create greater interactions during fermentation, resulting in wines that can have depth and layers, often with more natural acidity.

Removing the grapes from the stems, while more work, can provide several advantages:

• It allows for the fruit to control the flavors without the herbal or green notes that stems can impart. The resulting wine will typically be more fruit-forward. 

• De-stemming also helps to control the extraction of tannins or other compounds. This results in a wine that can be more balanced with less astringency associated with using the whole stem. Hence, softer tannins.

So, whole cluster fermentation adds complexity, structure, and a broader range of flavors, while de-stemming a wine maker to focus on fruit purity and achieve smoother tannins. Both methods work, but the winemaker, using their creative and artistic talents, ultimately decide which method to use. Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ - Conde Valdemar Reserva

2015 Conde Valdemar Reserva ($28.99)

Valdemar Family is comprised of 334 hectares (825 acres) of family-owned vineyards spanning Bodegas Valdemar in Roija, Spain and Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, Washington. The winemaking legacy of the Martínez Bujanda family dates back to 1889. The fifth generation siblings Ana and Jesús are currently at the helm of both estates on two continents.

For a Rioja to be called a “Reserva” means that it undergoes a minimum of three years of aging with at least one year in barrels and six months in the bottle. In this case, this Conde Valdemar Reserva spent 19 months in American oak (65%) and French oak (35%).

Produced from 85% Tempranillo, 7% Garnacha, 5% Garciano and 3% Maturana, this wine is medium-full bodied. It is a medium ruby-garnet color, showing its age. On the nose, it has muted aromas of fig, plum and cherry. On the palate, this Conde Valdemar Reserva has soft flavors of raisin, prune and fig. Its tannins are smooth, with medium-low acidity. It finishes soft, showing its 10-year age. Its a very nice Rioja Reserva!

To find ten year old wines is difficult, but to find one at this price is amazing! This 2015 Conde Valdemar Reserva is a really nice wine that’s available at a great price. That makes it a perfect fit as this week’s Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week. Cheers!

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Disclosure of Wine Sample Submission: I received this sample at no cost for review.

Media Sample Provided by Valdemar Family via Ten27 Communications

The Art of Wine Making: Choosing the Right Time to Harvest Grapes

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As previously mentioned, wine making is a blend of art and science. Another aspect that is often regarded as an art form is choosing the right time to harvest the grapes.

The art of determining when to harvest wine grapes is a crucial skill in winemaking, as it directly impacts the quality and style of the wine.

Here's a quick summary of the factors that winemakers must include when deciding when to harvest:

• Sugar Levels (Brix) - Winemakers will use technology to monitor the sugar levels of the grapes but have to decide when the best time is for harvesting.

• Acidity - As grapes ripen, their acidity generally decreases, so winemakers must find a balance between the grapes’ sugar and acidity.

• Tannins and Phenolics (in Red Wines) - As grapes ripen, tannins change. In the early stages of ripening, tannins may be bitter, but as the grape ripens, they will soften and become smoother.

• Flavors and Aromas - Winemakers will actually taste the grapes during ripening to monitor the development of flavors and to determine when the fruit has reached the desired complexity.

• Weather Conditions - Winemakers must be prepared for the possibility of unexpected rainfall or heatwaves, which can affect the quality of the grapes. And, generally speaking, harvest has to happen at the lowest temperatures (e.g., night time) in order to keep the grapes fresh during transport from the vineyard to the winery.

So, harvesting is a decision that involves a blend of science and art. By monitoring sugar levels, acidity, tannins, weather conditions, and the sensory characteristics of the fruit, a skilled winemaker can determine the perfect time to harvest, ensuring that the resulting wine reflects the desired balance and quality. Cheers!

Behind the Cork™ - Conde Valdemar Crianza

2019 Conde Valdemar Crianza ($19.99)

Valdemar Family is comprised of 334 hectares (825 acres) of family-owned vineyards spanning Bodegas Valdemar in Roija, Spain and Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, Washington. The winemaking legacy of the Martínez Bujanda family dates back to 1889. The fifth generation siblings Ana and Jesús are currently at the helm of both estates on two continents.

“Crianza” is a word you may not have noticed on wine labels since it doesn’t immediately mean anything to an English speaker. But, one of its translations means ‘aging.’ And, indeed, this style of Rioja wine is required to be aged for at least one year in oak and spend one year or more in the bottle before being sold.

This Conde Valdemar Crianza is produced from 82% Tempranillo, 11% Mazuelo (aka Carignan), 4% Graciano and 3% Maturana that are grown in their vineyards in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta.

It is deep purple in color with medium aromas of black cherry, plum and blackberry. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine has flavors of black fruit, tobacco leaf and chocolate (from the oak aging). It finishes smooth and easy with some spicy notes.

Conde Valdemar Crianza is a versatile wine with a nice balance between fruitiness and oak flavors. At this price, this wine is a perfect fit as the Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week. Cheers!

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Disclosure of Wine Sample Submission: I received this sample at no cost for review.

Media Sample Provided by Valdemar Family via Ten27 Communications

The Art of Wine Making: Removing Clusters Before They Ripen

Photo by Spencer DeMera on Unsplash

As previously mentioned, wine making is a blend of scientific and artistic expression. Another aspect that is often regarded as an art form is “green harvesting.”

Winemakers sometimes remove clusters of maturing fruit from grapevines before they ripen, a process called “green harvesting” or “crop thinning.”

This is done for several reasons:

• Improved Fruit Quality: By redirecting the vine’s energy to the remaining grapes, green harvesting allows them to ripen more fully. This enhanced ripeness can lead to a concentration of flavors, sugars, and acids, and ultimately results in higher-quality wine.

• Controlled Yield: A vine has a limited capacity to produce grapes. If it’s overloaded, it may not yield the best fruit. So,k thinning the clusters reduces the yield, often leading to more intense and complex flavors.

• Better Ripening: With fewer grapes on the vine, the remaining clusters may receive more sunlight and airflow, facilitating even ripening. This is particularly crucial in cooler growing regions or during challenging weather conditions.

• Disease Prevention: Removing clusters, like trimming the canopy, improves air circulation around the remaining grapes, reducing the risk of mold, mildew, and other diseases that can negatively impact fruit quality.

Green Harvesting, a practice that blends science and art, requires an artistic touch to make precise decisions at the right time. Here’s why it’s considered an art form:

1. Timing: Winemakers must make a delicate balance between thinning clusters and preserving the vine’s health and desired wine style. The optimal timing depends on an understanding of the vineyard, the season, and the grape variety.

2. Knowing the Right Amount to Trim: Determining the appropriate number of clusters to remove and which ones yield the best results is not straightforward. It involves removing just enough to enhance quality without compromising quantity.

3. Balance: Winemakers try to achieve overall vine balance. The goal is to ensure that the vine’s growth and fruit development lead to the best possible outcome, not just for the coming harvest but also for future ones.

4. Knowing the Terroir: Different regions, climates, and even specific vineyards (terroir) require unique green harvesting approaches. A skilled winemaker adapts the technique to suit the unique conditions of their vineyard.

5. Shaping the Environment: Ultimately, the objective is to enhance the wine’s quality, an artistic endeavor in itself. The winemaker essentially crafts the wine by shaping the environment in which the grapes grow. This involves making decisions that influence the wine’s complexity, structure, and character.

So, while green harvesting involves knowledge and technique, it’s also a creative and intuitive process—definitely an art as much as it is a science. Cheers!